Rampuri khansamas break out of Awadhi shadow

Their ancestors had seen the best and the worst of Rampur royalty — from coronation of its first nawab, Faizullah Khan, to the high and mighty becoming the ‘erstwhile’. And yet, their own role always remained crucial, for what is a royal celebration without equally glorious food?

But now, the khansamas, or traditional chefs, of the yore are faced with a rapidly changing world, revolving on the axis of rampant consumerism and where almost everything is available in an “instant” version. Not ones to give up easily though, a handful of khansamas are trying to conserve and revive their heritage.

Haji Bhoora, 49, of the fourth generation of chefs, is in the city with his team for the 10-day Rampuri Food Festival, hosted by Taj Palace. Bhoora has been rightly credited with establishing a separate entity for his city through food.

“My great grandfather was especially hand-picked by Faizullah to take over the kitchen. The nawab had just set up the princely state in 1774. Like his counterparts, he was very particular about his cuisine being unique. And so began my family’s culinary journey,” Bhoora says.

Talking even as the team serves the best of their culinary gems at the event, Bhoora reveals that …read more